Danish biotech company Cellugy has received €8.1 million (US$8.6 million) in funding from the EU under the LIFE Programme.

This funding will support the BIOCARE4LIFE project, which aims to commercialize EcoFLEXY, a cellulose-based rheology modifier intended to replace fossil-based carbomers in the personal care industry.

The funding will be allocated over four years to improve production efficiency and facilitate commercial adoption.

Cellugy expects that EcoFLEXY will assist manufacturers in meeting regulatory requirements and market demands.

🔗 Source: Cellugy

🧠 Food for thought

1️⃣ Microplastics regulation follows a decade-long global regulatory movement

Cellugy’s EcoFLEXY enters the market amid an accelerating regulatory trend against microplastics that began years earlier with microbead bans.

The current EU restrictions represent the culmination of efforts dating back to 2015-2017, when countries like the US and Canada first enacted legislation prohibiting microbeads in rinse-off products 1.

These earlier regulations primarily targeted visible plastic particles in exfoliating products, while the newer EU restrictions address a broader range of microplastics, including the invisible synthetic polymers like carbomers that EcoFLEXY aims to replace 2.

The EU’s phased implementation approach, beginning with rinse-off products in 2023 and gradually expanding to other cosmetics, allows industry time to adapt while maintaining environmental protection goals 3.

For personal care brands, the regulatory pressure represents not just a compliance challenge but a substantial economic consideration, with the industry potentially facing losses of approximately $13 billion due to microplastics bans and PFAS restrictions.

2️⃣ The performance gap has historically limited adoption of sustainable alternatives

The beauty industry’s transition to sustainable ingredients has been hampered by a persistent performance gap between petrochemical ingredients and their bio-based alternatives.

Traditional bio-based rheology modifiers like xanthan and cellulose gums have historically underperformed compared to synthetic carbomers, particularly in delivering the texture and skin feel consumers expect 4.

This performance challenge explains why nearly 70% of the €2.8 billion global rheology modifier market remains dominated by fossil-based ingredients despite growing environmental concerns and consumer demand for sustainability.